Uma “captura” comercial em forma de análise sensorial: investigando o “regime de engajamento na atenção” nos marcos das relações de consumo de café especial

Autores

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.22409/antropolitica2024.v56.i3.a58585

Palavras-chave:

Regime de engajamento, Regime de engajamento na atenção, Captura comercial, Mercado de café especial.

Resumo

A partir de um estudo etnográfico de cafeterias de café especial e de um evento de degustação de cafés na cidade do Rio de Janeiro, o presente artigo argumenta que as relações de consumo no mercado de café especial se pautam pelo que se propõe chamar aqui de “regime de engajamento na atenção”, alargando-se a perspectiva sociológica convencionalista iniciada pelo francês Laurent Thévenot. Para isso, em um primeiro momento, o artigo destaca a premência da degustação no desenvolvimento histórico de um nicho de comercialização do café, denominado de café especial. Depois, apresenta-se a perspectiva teórica dos “regimes de engajamento”, finalizando-se a discussão com a proposição de uma nova modalidade desses regimes, construída a partir da análise das relações de consumo no mercado de cafés especiais, em que o exercício coordenado de identificação de alguma experiência modeliza uma percepção comum sobre ele que engaja socialmente os atores em suas ações.

Downloads

Não há dados estatísticos.

Biografia do Autor

Igor Perrut, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro

Doutorando pelo Programa de Pós-Graduação em Sociologia e Antropologia Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro.

Referências

ALLAIRE, Gilles. Quality in economics: a cognitive perspective. In: HARVEY, Mark, WARDE, Alan; MCMEEKIN, Andrew. Qualities of food. Manchester University Press: Manchester, 2004. p. 61-93.

AURAY, Nicolas; VÉTEL, Bruno. “L’exploration comme modalité d’ouverture attentionnelle: Design et régulation d’un jeu freemium”. Réseaux, v. 182, n. 6, pp. 153- 186, 2013.

AURAY, Nicolas. “Les technologies de l’information et le régime exploratoire”. In: VAN ANDEL, Pek; BOURSIER, Danièle (org.). La sérendipité: Le hasard heureux. Paris: Hermann, 2011. p. 329-343.

BIGGART, Nicole; BEAMISH, Thomas. The economic sociology of conventions: habit, custom, practice, and routine in market order. Annu. Rev. Sociol., London, v. 29, p. 443-464, 2003.

BECKER, Howard. Métodos de pesquisa em ciências sociais. São Paulo: Hucitec, 1997.

BUSCH, Lawrence. Contested terrain: the ongoing struggles over food labels, standards and standards for labels. In: LAURENT, Brice; MALLARD, Alexandre (org). Labelling economy: qualities and values in contemporary markets. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2020. p. 33-58.

CALLON, Michel. Markets in the making: rethinking competition, goods and innovation. New York: Zone Books, 2021.

CHATEAURAYNAUD, Francis; BESSY, Christian. Experts et faussaires: pour une sociologie de la perception. Paris: Métailié, 1995.

CITTON, Yves. L’économie de l’attention: ¿horizon ultime du capitalisme? Paris: La Découverte: 2014.

CRARY, Jonathan. Suspensions of perception: attention, spectacle and modern culture. Cambridge: MIT Press, 2001

COULANGEON, Philippe. Sociologia das práticas culturais. São Paulo: Editora Sesc. 2014.

DAVIRON, Benoit; PONTE, Stefano. The Coffee Paradox: Global Markets, Commodity Trade and the Elusive Promise of Development. London: Zed, 2005

DEWEY, John. Logic: The Theory of Inquiry. Nova York: Henry Holt and Company, 1939.

EYMARD-DUVERNAY, François. Conventions de qualité et formes de coordination. Revue économique, Paris, v. 40, n. 2, p. 329-360, 1989.

GOLDSTEIN, Elaine. The “coffee doctors”: the language of taste and the rise of Rwanda’s specialty bean value. Food and Foodways, Fayetteville, v. 19, n. 1, 2011. Disponível em: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/07409710.2011.544226. Acesso em: 02/07/2024

GRONOW, Jukka. Standards of taste and varieties of goodness: the (um)predictability of modern consumption. In: HARVEY, Mark, WARDE, Alan, McMEEKIN, Andrew. Qualities of food. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2004. p. 28-60

HAMALAINEN, Mirja. BETTER COFFEE? The intertwining of ethics and quality in the third-wave coffee subculture. 2018. Dissertação (Mestrado em Comércio Internacional) – Departamento de Política e Ciências Econômicas, Universidade de Helsinki, Finlândia, 2018.

HENNION, Antoine. Music lovers: taste as performance. Theory, Culture and Society, [s. l.], v. 18, n. 5, p. 1-22, 2001.

HENNION, Antoine. Une sociologie des attachement: D’une sociologie de la culture à une pragmatique de l’amateur. Sociétés, Paris, n. 85, p. 9-24, 2004.

HENNION, Antoine. Those things that hold us together: taste and sociology. Journal of Cultural Sociology, London, v. 1, n. 1. p. 97-114, 2007.

HENNION, Antoine. The price of the people. Sociology, performance, reflexivity. In: WARDE, Alan; SILVA, Elizabeth. Cultural Analysis and Bourdieu’s legacy. London: Routledge, 2010. p. 117-127.

HENNION, Antoine. Pragmática do gosto. Desigualdade & Diversidade – Revista de Ciências Sociais da PUC-Rio, Rio de Janeiro, n. 8, p. 253-277, 2011. Disponível em: http://desigualdadediversidade.soc.puc-rio.br/media/artigo10_8.pdf. Acesso em: 02 jul. 2024

HENNION, Antoine. “Paying attention: What is tasting wine about? In: BARTHOIN, Arthur.; HUTTER, Marcel. STARK, David (ed.). Moments of valuation: Exploring sites of dissonance. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2015. p. 37-56.

HENNION, Antoine; GOMART, Emilie A sociology of attachment: Music amateurs, drug users. In: LAW, Jow; HASSARD, Joane (ed.) Actor Network Theory and after. Oxford: Sociological Review and Blackwell, 1999. p. 220-247.

HENNION, Antoine; TEIL, Geneviève. Discovering quality or performing taste? A sociology of the amateur. In: HARVEY, Marcel; McMEEKIN, Albe; WARDE, Alan (org.). Qualities of Food. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2004. p. 19-37.

HOLLAND Emil et al. Coordinating quality practices in Direct Trade coffee. Journal of Cultural Economy, London, v. 9, n. 2, p. 186-196, 2015. Disponível em: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/17530350.2015.1069205. Acesso em: 02 jul. 2024

JAFFEE, Daniel. Brewing justice: fair trade, sustainability, and survival. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007.

KARPIK, Lucien. Valuing the unique: the economics of singularities. Princeton University: New Jersey, 2010.

KOPYTOFF, Igor. The cultural biography of things: commoditization as process. In: APPADURAI, Arjun (ed.). The social life of things: commodities in a cultural perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986. p. 64-91.

LOW, Kelvin. The Social Life of the Senses: Charting Directions. Sociology Compass, v. 6, n. 3, p. 271–282, 2012.

MATHIEU, Paula. Economic citizenship and the rethoric of gourmet coffee. Rethoric Review, [s. l.], v. 18, n. 1, p 112-127, 1999.

MANZO, John. Coffee, connoisseurship, and an ethnomethodologically informed sociology of taste. Human Studies, New York, v. 33, p.141-155. 2010.

MANZO, John. “Third Wave” coffeehouses as venues for sociality: on encounters between employees and customers. The Qualitative Report, Davie, v. 20, n. 6. 2015. Disponível em: https://nsuworks.nova.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2141&context=tqr. Acesso em: 02 jun. 2024.

MEADEL, Cécile; RABEHARISOA, Vololona. Taste as a form of adjustment between food and consumers. In: COOMBS, Rod; GREEN, Ken; RICHARDS, Albert; WALSH, Vivian (org.). Technology and the Market: Demand, markets, users and innovation. Cheltenham: Edward Elgar, 1999. p. 289-300

PEIRCE, Charles Sanders. Semiótica. São Paulo: Perspectiva, 1977.

PERRUT, Igor. Atos de qualificação do café especial: circulando pelas convenções de qualidade do mercado de “terceira onda”. Revista Pós Ciências Sociais, [s. l.], v. 21, n. 1, p. 71–91, 2024. Disponível em: https://periodicoseletronicos.ufma.br/index.php/rpcsoc/article/view/23447. Acesso em: 03 jun. 2024.

RECKWITZ, Andreas. How the senses organize the social. In: LITTIG, Beate; JONAS, Michael (ed.). Praxeological Political Analysis. London: Routledge, 2016. p. 26-37

ROSEBERRY, William. The rise of yuppie coffees and the reimagination of class in the United States. American Anthropologist, New York, New Series, v. 98, n. 4, p. 762-775, 1996.

ROSENBERG, Lauren et al. Practices of third wave coffee: a Burundian producer’s perspective. Business Strategy and the Environment, Bangkok, v. 27, p. 199-214, 2018. Disponível em: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1002/bse.2010Acesso em: 02 jun. 2024.

SLINGERLAND, Edward. Drunk: how we sipped, danced, and stumbled our way to civilization. Nova York: Little Brow Spark, 2021.

SMITH, Julia. Fair trade and the specialty coffee market: growing alliances, shifting rivalries. In: MOBERG, Mark; LYON, Sarah (org.). Fair trade and social justice: global ethnographies. Nova York: New York University Press, 2010. p. 28-46

SOLANO, Denia. Cultura, sabor e mercado do café: uma leitura antropológica. In: MENASCHE et al. (org.) Dimensões socioculturais da alimentação. Porto Alegre: Editora da UFRGS, 2012. p. 149-166

STANDAGE, Tom. História do mundo em 6 copos. Rio de Janeiro: Zahar 2012

THÉVENOT, Laurent. “Les investissement de forme”. In: THÉVENOT, Laurent. Conventions Économiques: Cahiers du Centre d’Étude de l’Emploi, 29. Paris: PUF, 1986.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. L’action qui convient. In: THÉVENOT, Laurent. Les formes de l’action. Paris, Éditions de l’École des hautes études en sciences sociales, 1990. p. 39-69.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. “L’action en plan”. Sociologie du Travail, v. 37, n. 3, p. 411-434, 1995.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. Organized complexity: conventions of coordination and the composition of economic arrangements. European Journal of Social Theory, [s. l.], v. 4, n. 405, p. 405-425, 2001a.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. Pragmatic regimes governing the engagement with the world. In: SCHATZKI, Theodore; KNORR-CETINA, Karin; SAVIGNY, Eike (ed.). The practice turn in contemporary theory. London: Routledge, 2001b. p. 64-82.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. Conventions of co-ordination and the framing of uncertainty. In: FULLBROOK, Edward (org.). Intersubjectivity in economics. London: Routledge, 2002. p.181-197.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. The plurality of cognitive formats and engagements: moving between the familiar and the public. European Journal of Social Theory, London, v. 10, n.3, p. 409-423, 2007.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. The invested human being: four extensions of the notion of engagement. In: ARCHER, Margaret; MACCARINI, Andrea (org.). Engaging with the world: agency, institutions, historical formations. London: Routledge, p. 19-38, 2012.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. Making commonality in the plural on the basis of binding engagements. In: DUMOUCHEL, Paul; REIKO, Gotoh Reiko (org.) Social bonds as freedom: revising the dichotomy of the universal and the particular. Oxford: Berghahn, 2015. p. 82-108.

THÉVENOT, Laurent. La acción en plural: una introducción a la sociología pragmática. Buenos Aires: Siglo Veintiuno, 2017. [2006].

THÉVENOT, Laurent. Os passivos da humanidade comum. In: WERNECK, Alexandre; FERREIRA, Letícia (org.). Questões de moral, moral em questão: estudos de sociologia e antropologia das moralidades. Rio de Janeiro: Mórula, 2023. p. 230-264.

THÉVENOT, Laurent, DUPUY, Jean-Pierre, EYMARD-DUVERNAY, François, FAVEREAU, Olivier, ORLÉAN, André, SALAIS Robert. Introduction. Revue économique, [s. l.], v. 40, n.2, p. 141-146. 1989.

THOMAS, William; THOMAS, Dorothy. The child in America: behavior problems and programs. Nova York: A. A. Knopf, 1938.

TUCKER, Catherine. Coffee culture: local experiences, global connections. Nova York: Routledge, 2011.

VOB, Jan-Peter; GUGGENHEIM, Michael. Making taste public: industrialized orders of sensing and the democratic potential of experimental eating. Politics and Governance, Lisbon, v. 7, n. 4, p. 224-236, 2019. Disponível em: https://www.cogitatiopress.com/politicsandgovernance/article/view/2215 Acesso em: 02 jun. 2024.

WARDE, Alan. Dimensions of a social theory of taste. Journal of Cultural Economy, London, v. 1, n. 3, p. 321-336, 2008.

WERNECK, Alexandre. Obstáculos na “pista livre”: algumas considerações sobre a pragmática dos dispositivos da “Lei do Trânsito” no Rio de Janeiro. Antropolítica, Revista Contemporânea de Antropologia, Niterói, n. 50, p. 327-355, 2020. Disponível em: https://periodicos.uff.br/antropolitica/article/view/42707. Acesso em: 08 ago. 2024.

ZERUBÁVEL, Eviatar. Taken for granted: the remarkable power of the unremarkable. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2018.

Downloads

Publicado

2024-09-02

Como Citar

Perrut, I. (2024). Uma “captura” comercial em forma de análise sensorial: investigando o “regime de engajamento na atenção” nos marcos das relações de consumo de café especial. Antropolítica - Revista Contemporânea De Antropologia, 56(3). https://doi.org/10.22409/antropolitica2024.v56.i3.a58585

Edição

Seção

Artigos